Liscomb, NS

Cruising the “Eastern Shore” of Nova Scotia has transitioned back to coastal ocean cruising. The conditions aren’t necessarily worse, different would be a reasonable characterization as we leave the protected waters that we’ve been enjoying in favor of the more changeable conditions we encounter at sea. The ride involves more motion, and our comings and goings are dictated primarily by the weather and sea state. We like when the winds are calm, which is rare, so we’ll travel when the winds are going the same direction we are. A head sea results in a bucking bronco ride since our forward motion against the motion of the sea sets us plowing through successive waves at uncomfortably short intervals, maybe every second or so as opposed to moving along with the motion of the waves that alternately lift and drop us several feet as the waves pass beneath us. It’s a relatively gentle motion, albeit lots of it, but the stabilizers significantly reduce the side to side roll. As any cruiser will tell you, bucking a head sea is no fun!

We departed Canso 0805 bound for Liscomb, a run of about 54 miles, arriving at the public wharf at Little Liscomb at 1715. The public wharves that can be found all over the coast are just that, public. So if there’s a space available that’s suitable, you can tie to the wharf at no charge. There’s generally no one around, and if there’s no space, it’s perfectly acceptable to tie next to a fishing boat. We had some company at the Liscombe wharf, a local family was enjoying a cookout on shore near the wharf, and made their way to the wharf where their lobster boat was tied. Molly made instant friends with the kids, and their grandfather, Chester sat on the pier and chatted with us. Turns out he’s the dockmaster at the Liscombe Mills Lodge, a popular resort at the head of the river. It’s listed in the cruising guides, with favorable comments. Our initial plan was not to stop there, but Chester convinced us to have a visit. So we spent the night at the public wharf and in the morning gave Chester a call at the Lodge and told him we’d be on our way. He had already given me some local knowledge on the short way around the adjacent island that involves navigating a very narrow cut, and with his advice, we had no problem finding our way through. Just beautiful country, and we enjoyed the leisurely hour’s cruise to the Lodge.

The Lodge is a popular family resort, with hotel rooms, small “chalets”, the Lodge and restaurant along the banks of the river and a large indoor pool with heated saltwater. The grounds are immaculate, and the small dock with room for two or three boats is nestled in the bend of the river. An overnight stay at the marina costs $40 and includes use of all the facilities at the Lodge. The restaurant is famous for their signature cedar planked salmon, and we sampled it, quite delicious! We also took on 660 litres of fuel, the primary reason for our visit, since we won’t be able to leave Canada on the fuel we have remaining. Fuel costs convert to $3.95/gal. in US dollars and gallons. Ouch. We have enough fuel to get us to Maine now, and we’ll take on US fuel there to get us back to Shark River, NJ where we’ll top off again. Big ouch.

With the weather window to an approaching front closing, we decided to head out Tuesday morning, and shoved off bright and early, underway by 0635, bound for either Tangier or Halifax, depending on sea state and revised predictions as we approached the Tangier cutoff. As it was, the revised prediction called for the same or less favorable conditions for Wednesday, so we chose to continue to Halifax, with arrival projected for 1830, well before dark. The rest of the run was uneventful, lots of motion but a following sea, so a long travel day but we covered 85 nm, a good day’s cruise.

One Response to “Liscomb, NS”

  1. Todd & Belinda on 27 Aug 2010 at 10:23 AM #

    What a beautiful area! Glad to hear you are having a great journey. Belinda & my favorite memories are of the people we met along the way, it sounds like you are enjoying them also.

    Keep an eye out for Bill Richards, I hear he used to hang out near Halifax. Bill was one of Belinda’s old bosses in the medical field and we had heard he bought a place in Halifax to retire at. I am actually trying to locate him for our Haiti project.

    Peace & Blessings,
    Todd & Belinda